Weaves of Jamakkalam from Bhavani to London

CHENNAI: On the ramps of London, where trends are fleeting and glamour is momentary, designer Vino Supraja chose to pause and look back — towards the looms of Bhavani. Her collection, WEAVE: A Bhavani Tribute, reimagines the centuries-old Jamakkalam as a narrative of sustainability and pride. “This is a most heartwarming journey,” says Vino Supraja as she shares her experience.

London Fashion Week is not new to Vino, as she had already spotlighted Therukoothu in 2023 on the global stage. She began working with the weavers in Bhavani to create handbags using Jamakkalam. “I started working on this collection in January. This year is completely dedicated to the craft, which makes it fulfilling. The idea totally aligned with my personal purpose,” she shares.

When the organisers of London Fashion Week approached Vino Supraja, asking if she had anything special to showcase this year, her immediate response was, “Let me think.” But her thoughts had already begun to process how to creatively present Jamakkalam to the world. “I had such a precious craft in my hand. It was like a calling, as I was already working with the weavers in Bhavani. And that’s how the collection, WEAVE: A Bhavani Tribute, fell into place,” she adds.

Recalling her moments on the ramp at Devonshire Square, London, Vino reminisces, “Right from the beginning, I visualised myself walking on the ramp along with Sakthivel Periyasamy Ayya, who represented the weavers. Moreover, a goosebumps moment was when I learned that, during the British era, Devonshire Square was used as a warehouse to store Indian fabrics by the East India Company.”

The primary aim of the collection was to initiate a conversation about Jamakkalam on a global platform. The weavers were in the spotlight, and it was a tribute to their hard work in preserving the legacy. “Completing the collection was quite laborious. But it was worth every sweat. To delve deep into the craft, we decided to include a performance by Vanmathi Jagan and music by Paul Jacob, a tribute to Tamil heritage,” Vino Supraja states.

What made Vino Supraja stand out was her decision not to focus on the struggles of the weavers. “I wanted to celebrate our traditional craft and weavers. The world should see them with dignity and respect, not out of pity,” she notes. With each passing day, the process evolved. The challenge Vino faced as a sustainable fashion designer was to interpret Bhavani Jamakkalam through striking colours.

Vino Supraja feels she is merely a communicator, bringing Tamil Nadu’s hidden crafts to the global stage. “India is a treasure trove of traditions and heritage. Designers can creatively reimagine these and help the weavers showcase their work to high standards. I see myself as a tool in bringing these stories to a global audience. In this way, awareness of our culture will reach new heights. It is quite overwhelming to know that now I am one among Sakthivel Ayya’s family and that the people of Bhavani are celebrating the global recognition.”

Vino Supraja has always upheld her stance on sustainable fashion. However, many other designers argue that sustainability hampers creativity. Sharing her thoughts, Vino affirms, “Sustainability is not a gimmick any longer. It has become a norm. It is quite hard to see how sustainability is a barrier to the creative process, because only when you face a design challenge can you come up with a creative solution. I believe that creativity has largely diminished now. It is high time we revert to our ancient ways and make the world a better place to live.”