Karuppar Mess: Flavours of Chettinad from a 61-year-old's kitchen in Vadapalani

CHENNAI: Earlier this year, DT Next reported that there would be a rise in the popularity and demand for micro-regional cuisines in Chennai. Reflecting this, we can witness an increased demand for such cuisines, highlighting the flavours of Kongu, Madurai, Chettinadand Tirunelveli, among many others. To meet the demand, many new restaurants are popping up in the city. One such new addition to the list is Karuppar Mess.

As we stroll through the bustling main road in Vadapalani, managing to find our way amid the loud honking of vehicles, the name Karuppar Mess catches our attention. With a well-lit ambience and spacious seating, the diner recently revamped its menu, and the aroma of biryani warmly welcomes us.

Under the guidance of Kalaiselvi, the restaurant serves dishes with homemade masalas and strictly no preservatives or artificial colours. “My roots are in Karaikudi. Previously, my family ran a diner for 25 years, but we had to shut it down a decade ago. Now again, I am venturing into the field with Karuppar Mess,” says Kalaiselvi, founder of the restaurant.

Full View

We are intrigued by the name Karuppar and ask the founder about it. With an innocent smile, she says, “Our family deity is Karuppasamy. That’s why we named the diner after him.” Serving an array of vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes, Kalaiselvi picks biryani and nalli masala as her favourites. Not to miss, the Chettinad boneless curry, made using small onions, also has its spot on the list.

“This field is not new to me. In all these years, never once have I felt tired. This is because I am passionate about cooking, and this is what I prepare for my family members,” she shares.

As we eagerly sit down to begin the feast, the first dish that arrives is the chicken tandoor platter, featuring Afghan, hariyali, tangdi kebab and regular tandoori chicken, two pieces each. Then the piping hot biryani is served on the banana leaf, which is quite tempting. More than anything, the nei iraal chukka and nalli masala get a 10 on 10 from us. The meat pieces in both dishes are cooked to perfection and blend well with the masala. These pair beautifully with the biryani too.

In the chicken meal, we get to savour the Chettinad chicken curry with an adequate portion of white rice and chicken 65. Though the flavours are great, the chicken 65 is quite tough. Again, a set of starters finds its way to our table. This time, it is mutton mutta kari and chicken karandi omelette.

Though they serve a range of North Indian and Chinese dishes, the authentic Tamil Nadu cuisine wins our hearts.