Thiruttu manga: The memorable bite into our childhood memories

CHENNAI: With mango season in full swing, it's more than just a time for juicy indulgence - it's a season steeped in nostalgia. For many, the arrival of mangoes brings back memories from childhood, growing-up years, and even recent family rituals. DT Next delves into the deep-rooted connection many share with mangoes, as several Chennaites open up about their fondest memories, age-old recipes, and beloved summer traditions.

For food blogger Senguttuvan Subburathina, the mango season is more than just a time of fruit, it's a season of cherished memories. “My earliest memories of mango season are still fresh. Summer vacations were spent in our native village, with my six siblings in our lone clay-tiled house nestled in the middle of paddy fields, surrounded by mango trees. I can still picture the cattle shed and those trees heavy with fruit, their branches hanging low and within our reach. Many ripe mangoes would fall and lie on the ground, often half-eaten by squirrels,” he says fondly.

The varieties were plenty - Malgoa, Kilimooku (Parrot Beak), Sendhura, Neelam. “Early mornings, I’d go out with my maternal uncle to pluck the mature mangoes. We’d bring them home, spread them across the floor, and cover them with hay to ripen naturally.”

At his home, mangoes were enjoyed in every form - from tender mangoes and ripe ones to pickles of all kinds. “We’d have instant raw mango pickles and the much-loved vadu mangai - tender mango pickles that stayed good for 2-3 years. Even while returning from our village, the car would be filled with the fragrance of mangoes and carefully packed pickles.”

Later, after moving to Chennai, Senguttuvan’s home in Anna Nagar had its little backyard paradise. “We had coconut trees, a jackfruit tree, a guava tree, and one lone mango tree. It grew tall, but for ten years, it didn’t bear a single fruit. Then one day, my mother-in-law picked up a machete and jokingly threatened the tree, saying she’d cut it down if it didn’t bear fruit. That very year, it started yielding mangoes and every season after, we enjoyed its fruits.”

Mangoes remain a staple in his household. “My mother’s vadu mangai was a treasured preparation. The instant cut mango pickle is another favourite - crunchy, flavourful, and so easy to make. It pairs beautifully with curd rice, though my grandson loves eating it straight from the cup!”

Senguttuvan also shares a tip from his kitchen: “Adding chopped raw mango to moringa sambhar at the end of cooking gives it a unique, irresistible flavour.” For his wife, mangoes are non-negotiable. “During mango season, she must have one with lunch - no side dish needed," he shares.

He adds, “For Tamil New Year, it’s traditional to make raw mango pachadi for the pooja. On that day alone, a small amount of neem flowers is added as garnish - symbolising the blend of tastes and emotions life brings.”

Storyteller and dancer Ramaa Bharadvaj tells us that the thought of mangoes instantly brings back the golden summers of her childhood in Salem, a town famed for its luscious Malgova mangoes. “As a child, every summer vacation meant going to Salem, where my uncle and his family lived. Those months in Salem felt like the height of luxury. Whenever the mango seller came around with a huge basket of Malgova mangoes, my aunt wouldn’t just buy a few, she would buy the entire basket! Even now, the sight or smell of mangoes immediately takes me back to that joy," she recalls with a smile.

Mangoes weren’t just a snack; they were a way of life. “We ate mangoes for breakfast, again after lunch in place of dessert, and even at dinner. And always with fresh cow’s milk. Since mangoes are believed to generate heat in the body, the milk would balance it out.”

One part of those memories is especially vivid for her. “In my uncle’s house, there was a cow named Lakshmi. She was fed fresh corn every day, and as a result, her milk had a delicate, corn-like sweetness and it was wonderfully creamy. Eating ripe mangoes with that milk was such a treat.”

Ramaa also passes down these traditions through cooking. “One recipe my children love is Mor Kozhambu made with ripe mangoes. It’s a creamy yoghurt-based curry, and when made with sweet ripe mango, it becomes something truly special. It’s one of my favourite summer recipes.”

For Indumathi Mohan, who works as the Chief Librarian at DakshinaChitra Museum, mangoes are inseparable from childhood mischief and tradition. “Everyone has some story with mangoes. Most of us have experienced 'thiruttu manga' - stealing mangoes from a neighbour’s tree. They say those stolen ones are always the tastiest!" she smiles.

Growing up as a Kannadiga, Indumathi remembers two dishes: mavinkai thovve, a simple dal made with raw mango, and mavinkai gojju, a tangy-sweet curry with jaggery that’s similar to Tamil Nadu’s kozhambu, but with a distinct flavour profile. “And then there’s mavadu - those tiny mangoes pickled to perfection. It's spicy, tangy, and utterly addictive," she adds.

Even her favourite beach snack features mango. “I love thenga manga pattani sundal sold at the beaches. I always ask for extra raw mango slices, it gives that perfect punch of flavour.”

PR consultant Arva Kadi says that mangoes are woven into her childhood and motherhood alike. “My mom used to make a mango pickle with jaggery and vinegar, with juicy mango pieces soaking in that sweet-sour blend. And then there was a simple chutney made by grating raw mango and tempering it with mustard seeds and curry leaves. With hot rice and dal, it was just heavenly.”

Mango season also meant messy joy for Arva. “We were never allowed to wear nice clothes while eating mangoes. Mom would make us wear old, worn-out clothes - it was always sticky, juicy, and fun. No table manners, just pure mango madness," she shares.

As a mother, Arva kept the tradition alive in her way. “During the season, I’d make aamras and chapati for my kids. That became their go-to lunch or breakfast. They loved it, and I didn’t have to worry about what to cook - it was a win-win. If I don’t know what to make on a hot day, it’s always roti and aamras. It never fails," she sums up.