Atlappam: More than a dish, it’s Kasimedu meenavars’ special
An adaptation of the popular Sri Lankan delicacy watlappam, atlappam is one of the traditional dishes that can be explored only in Kasimedu. This Madras Week, let’s delve deep into the significance of the dish
Lakshmi’s atlappam in Kasimedu
CHENNAI: As the salty breeze whispers tales of the sea, Kasimedu’s kitchens come alive with the sweet and savoury aroma of atlappam, a beloved treat that has been passed down through generations of fishermen’s families. This delicacy remains hidden in the narrow lanes of the neighbourhood, making it one of the iconic dishes of Madras.
As we walk along a street near N4 Beach and Swallows Bus Stop, we come across Lakshmi’s atlappam shop. Fondly called Lakshmi akka by locals and customers, she has been selling authentic atlappam for the past two years. “Before this, I suffered heavy losses in the karuvadu and restaurant business. My daughters suggested I start an atlappam shop. As I was uncertain about it, even though my family has been making it for generations, I trained under someone to learn the nuances,” begins Lakshmi.
Although her goal was simply to cover her expenses, Lakshmi was taken aback by the varied reactions to her atlappam. “We started by selling 30 atlappams daily. Now, it has risen to 100,” she adds.
According to Lakshmi, atlappams are a special delicacy of Kasimedu meenavars. But why? “Made with healthy ingredients and prepared organically, these traditional treats are hearty and filling for tired fishermen returning from the sea,” she explains. These delicate, lacy pancakes, crafted from a secret blend of rice, coconut, and spices, stand as a testament to the community’s rich culinary heritage. With each bite, the tender crumb melts on the tongue, enveloping taste buds with the gentle sweetness of jaggery and the warmth of cardamom.
For those unfamiliar, atlappams are a variation of watlappams and are often called the Indian pizza by Kasimedu residents. Notably, these treats are cooked only on natural fire stoves using mud pots. “Atlappam’s glory is spreading far and wide. Previously, only locals knew about it, but now I receive customers from Salem, Villupuram, Puducherry, and Velankanni, as it is in affordable price. This will be available only on Sunday every week,” says the 42-year-old.
—Embark on a culinary journey to Kasimedu and discover the story behind this mouthwatering atlappam at Lakshmi Akka Kadai, near Swallows Bus Stand, Desiya Nagar entrance. This underrated delight will be available regularly on Sundays from 1 am.
